Wednesday, August 28, 2013

Luangwa Day 3

Day 2 Night Drive:
Entered the park and went a different way than normal. Very different terrain again than other areas of the park. We lucked out early and came across a beautiful family of elephants, including a baby who was less than a year old. So sweet, he was learning how to pull and eat grass. 

Later we had another leopard sighting, this one was relaxing on a tree branch the same way that house cats sit on sofa arms, sprawled in each side! 

There was a beautiful water hole full of lilypads, and had many different bird species mulling about. Our drive took us all over, it was very peaceful (well, as peaceful as it can be riding in a Landrover).

Tumours of lions started to filter through the guides, so we had our sunset juice and watched te cars. Later when it was full-dark (so 15 minutes later) we found a road to watch the 'herd' of Landrovers from- when they started loving we gunned it, and got to the sweet spot first!!

Lions! An entire pride leaving their den and on the move, looking for dinner. We followed them for a ways, and then Pious predicted where they were headed and we pulled ahead to get a good spot. Using red spotlights we were able to watch the pride arrive, separate (one female left behind to watch the cubs, who were intently learning how to hunt by watching). The spotlights were then turned off and silence reigned. Randomly someone turned on their spot and we saw Puku antelope and lions running in every direction. It was remarkably silent for the chaos... Then we heard a shriek, then growls, and then suddenly all the trucks turned on, full lights, and we raced to the kill sight. I was amazed how this actually didn't affect me: I suspect had I seen the kill happen I'd have felt differently, but this was very clinical and clean. We spent the next 20 minutes 5 meters max away from 18 feasting lions. One even came within 2 meters of me to chew a portion shed broken off. I never thought Id turn my back on a pride of feasting lions, but I did to face the clients one... What an experience!!!!!! I did try take some video, so will have to see how that worked out. Wow.

Aug 24th, Day 3

Up again at 5am for another day in Africa. Ill admit to being rather tired and wanted to stay in bed, partially at least due to hyena calls keeping me awake at night. What a strange life I'm living right now!

Our drive today was less active than the past couple, but I suspect more normal... I mean, we've had a spectacular first few days, and every day can't be like that, right!?

Highlights of the morning include seeing a leopard up a tree with his lunch, an impala, hanging in the tree... Leopards can carry twice their own body weight with their jaws, so they sneakily bring their meals up high to avoid sharing.  Pious studied tracks and could tell hyena had been around, so probably a good move.

Came across some older buffalo grazing, such strange looking creatures. They actually sound quite terrifying, how they are very intelligent and difficult to kill- if you wound him he won't run, he'll start hunting you!!

Saw quite a few more giraffes, including babies, as well as our elephants. Many different birds too, including an African eagle hawk (?! To be confirmed)

Our final challenge was finding the lion pride again, as rumours were once again flyin that they were around. After an hour of searching we did. They were under a tree on a riverbank not too far from last nights kill. They were all happily dozing, and I was less than 2m away from the closest. Never in my life did I expect to be so close to a pride!!  

On our route back we went past the killing sight and I was amazed at how little was left- essentially zero evidence of it, and what little was left was being worked on n vultures. Africa is deadly, efficient, and doesn't waste anything.

We are now resting up for the next night drive tonight. I suspect we will take tomorrow as a rest day, as 9 hours a day in a bumpy 4x4 with early starts and late evenings tends to be a little wearying. That will still allow 2 full days of drives before I have my 48 hour return journey.

So, book, water, river....

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Night drive report:
Scratch that last comment, we are goin tomorrow for sure! Night drive was lovely,   We are still managing to see lots that peaks our interest. Old lady giraffes, itsy bitsy baby baboons, plump hippos with lts of fighting scars. We saw 2 leopards, one in tall grass debating game, and the other way across a dried watering hole- which we peomptly drove across to get closer, much to the leopards disgust.

We also drove into some more remote areas of the park for our sundown. Pious really goes out of his way to get away from the other trucks and gives us a more solitary experience, which is lovely.

The focus of the evening was the lions. We went back to find them and they'd moved a little, but not far enough to elude Pious. They were all fast asleep and we were right among them. I was 5ft away from one and she was lookin directly into my eyes, assessing me. Hindsight makes it a bit frightening, but at the time I was just thinking how cool it was! We also got pretty close to the big daddy, which was awesome.  Later in the evening we tracked them down again, this time in multiple groups, some rescuing a tiny cub, the others looking for dinner. We couldn't stay to watch due to the parks closing time.

One set of lucky tourists might though, due to having a driver who ambitiously drove into the riverbank and promptly got stuck, about 50 meters from the pride. It was quite hilarious at first, then the pride took notice... And, strangely, our guide didn't care at all and drove off! Guess there's no 'rescuing' in that situation?

Anyway, must sleep, up early again tomorrow!!!

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